Mopar Spark Plugs
Spark Plug
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Genuine OEM Mopar Spark Plugs
The short answer: if your Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, or Ram has a gasoline engine, the right spark plug is the exact heat range, gap, thread reach, and electrode design that engine was calibrated with, and that is what genuine Mopar spark plugs deliver. Using the factory-specified plug keeps your engine starting easily, idling smoothly, and burning fuel the way the engine computer expects. Enter your VIN at Mopar Superstore to see the plugs that fit your exact engine, then have them shipped anywhere in the country.
Spark plugs are small, inexpensive compared with most engine parts, and easy to overlook until something goes wrong. A worn or incorrect plug can cause misfires, rough running, poor fuel economy, and a flashing check engine light, and a misfire left unattended can overheat and damage the catalytic converter. Getting the plug right is cheap insurance.
Which Mopar Engines Use Spark Plugs?
Before you shop, it helps to know what is under your hood. Every gasoline engine in the Mopar lineup uses spark plugs; diesel engines do not. Diesels ignite fuel through compression heat and use glow plugs or intake heaters to help with cold starts, so if you drive a Ram Heavy Duty with the 6.7L Cummins, or an earlier model with the 3.0L EcoDiesel, you will not find spark plugs in your engine.
Chrysler
Many Chrysler minivans and sedans use the 3.6L Pentastar V6, a widely used engine family across the brand. Some Chrysler models have also offered HEMI V8 power and, on certain models, hybrid powertrains that still use a gasoline engine with spark plugs. Plug access varies by vehicle; on some transverse V6 minivans, the rear bank sits close to the firewall and may require removing the upper intake manifold.
Dodge
Dodge vehicles span the Pentastar V6 and the 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI V8s, along with high-output performance variants. HEMI engines use two spark plugs per cylinder, so an eight-cylinder HEMI uses sixteen plugs. Supercharged and high-performance engines may specify different plugs than naturally aspirated versions of similar displacement, which is another reason to shop by VIN.
Jeep
Jeep models commonly use the 3.6L Pentastar V6 or the 2.0L turbocharged four-cylinder, with HEMI V8 and other engine options on some models. Turbocharged engines place higher cylinder pressures on spark plugs, and the factory plug is chosen to handle that. Some Jeep plug-in hybrid models pair the 2.0L turbo with electric motors and still require regular plug service.
Ram
Gasoline Ram trucks commonly use the Pentastar V6 or the 5.7L HEMI V8, and some recent models use the 3.0L Hurricane inline-six. Heavy-duty Ram trucks with gasoline engines also use spark plugs. Remember that a Ram 1500 with the eTorque mild-hybrid system still has a conventional gas engine underneath, so it still needs plugs.
Inside a Spark Plug: How It Works
A spark plug is a threaded electrical component that sits in the cylinder head with its tip inside the combustion chamber. On modern Mopar engines, each plug is fired by its own ignition coil mounted directly on top of it, an arrangement called coil-on-plug ignition. The engine computer tells each coil exactly when to fire. The coil steps battery voltage up to many thousands of volts, and that voltage jumps the small gap between the plug’s center electrode and ground electrode, creating the spark that ignites the compressed air-fuel mixture.
The Parts of a Plug
- Terminal: the top connection that receives voltage from the coil.
- Ceramic insulator: keeps high voltage traveling down the center rather than shorting to the cylinder head, and helps manage tip temperature.
- Metal shell and threads: secure the plug in the head and transfer heat into the cooling system.
- Center electrode: often tipped with iridium or platinum on modern plugs for long life.
- Ground electrode: the bent arm the spark jumps to.
- Gasket or tapered seat: seals combustion pressure, depending on the design.
What Heat Range Means
Heat range describes how quickly a plug transfers heat from its tip into the cylinder head. A plug that runs too cool can foul with carbon deposits; a plug that runs too hot can cause pre-ignition, which can damage pistons. Engineers select a heat range that keeps the tip hot enough to burn off deposits but cool enough to stay safe. That is a big reason to stick with the factory plug rather than a “universal” upgrade.
Why the Gap Matters
The gap is the distance the spark has to jump. Too small, and the spark is weak; too large, and the coil has to work harder and may misfire under load. Many modern plugs come pre-gapped for their intended engine. If your service information calls for checking the gap, use a proper gap tool and be careful not to damage precious-metal tips.
How to Choose the Right Spark Plug
Spark plug selection is engine-specific, not just vehicle-specific. Two trucks with the same model name and year can need different plugs if they have different engines. Follow these steps:
- Start with your VIN. The 17-character VIN (on the dashboard near the windshield, the driver’s door jamb label, or your registration) identifies the exact engine your vehicle was built with.
- Confirm the engine. Your owner’s manual and the emissions label under the hood list engine displacement and type.
- Count your plugs. HEMI engines use two plugs per cylinder; most other engines use one. Order a complete set.
- Check for turbo, supercharger, or hybrid systems. Forced induction and some hybrid engines often specify different plugs.
- Look at related parts. If a coil boot is torn or oil-soaked, it may need replacing along with the plugs.
What’s in Our Spark Plug Category
Mopar Superstore carries genuine Mopar ignition parts for gasoline engines across the Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Ram lineup. Depending on your vehicle, you’ll find:
- Long-life iridium and platinum spark plugs specified for modern engines
- Plugs for HEMI V8 engines with dual-plug cylinder heads
- Plugs for turbocharged four- and six-cylinder engines
- Plugs for older Mopar engines still on the road
- Related ignition components such as coils and coil boots on applicable models
Spark plugs are a natural part of a scheduled tune-up. Many owners replace them alongside engine air filters, fuel filters where serviceable, and oil filters, or pick up a bundled Mopar maintenance kit to cover several items at once.
Spark Plug Needs by Type of Driver
The Daily Commuter
Short trips and stop-and-go driving don’t always let an engine warm up completely, which can contribute to deposits on plug tips over time. Following the replacement interval in your owner’s manual, and occasionally driving at sustained highway speeds, helps keep plugs clean. Smooth idle at stoplights and steady fuel economy are signs that your plugs are healthy.
Towing and Hauling
Pulling a trailer or carrying a full bed puts the engine under heavy load for long periods, and that is when a weak spark is most likely to show up as a misfire. Owners who tow regularly may fall under the “severe service” schedule in their owner’s manual, which can call for more frequent inspections. If you notice hesitation under load, have plugs and coils checked.
Performance Driving
High-output HEMI and supercharged engines create intense heat and cylinder pressure. The factory plug is selected to handle those conditions, so stay with the specified part rather than experimenting with a different heat range. If you have modified the engine, consult a qualified performance technician about plug selection.
Off-Road Jeeps
Trail driving often means long periods at low speed and high load, plus water crossings, dust, and steep angles. Keep the air filter clean so dirt doesn’t reach the cylinders, and inspect coil boots for cracks that could let moisture in. A misfire after a deep water crossing can point to moisture around the coils or plug wells.
OEM Mopar vs. Aftermarket Spark Plugs
| Feature | Genuine Mopar Spark Plugs | Generic Aftermarket Plugs |
|---|---|---|
| Engine calibration | Matches the plug the engine computer was calibrated around | May be “close enough” across many engines |
| Heat range | Factory-specified for your engine | Can differ, risking fouling or pre-ignition |
| Thread reach and seat | Exact match for your cylinder head | Usually correct, but errors can damage threads or pistons |
| Electrode material | Specified for the engine’s intended service life | Varies widely by brand and price tier |
| Gap | Pre-set for the intended engine where applicable | May require adjustment |
| Warranty | Backed by the Mopar parts warranty | Depends on manufacturer |
| Fitment lookup | Confirmed by VIN | Typically by year, make, and model only |
Marketing claims for “more power” plugs are common, but a stock engine is designed around its factory plug. In most cases, the best performance and longest life come from the part the engineers chose.
Symptoms of Worn or Failing Spark Plugs
Plugs wear gradually as the electrodes erode and the gap grows. Watch for these signs:
- Rough idle or a shaking sensation at stops
- Misfires, often felt as stumbling or jerking under acceleration
- Check engine light, especially a flashing light, which can indicate an active misfire; reduce load and have it checked promptly
- Hard starting or extended cranking
- Reduced fuel economy without another obvious cause
- Hesitation or sluggish acceleration, particularly when towing or climbing hills
These symptoms can also come from coils, fuel injectors, vacuum leaks, or sensors, so a diagnostic scan is a smart first step. Still, if your plugs are near or past the interval in your owner’s manual, they’re a likely suspect. Many modern engines specify long-life plugs with intervals around 100,000 miles, but intervals vary by engine and driving conditions, so check your manual for your specific schedule.
Step-by-Step: Replacing Spark Plugs on a Coil-on-Plug Engine
Safety note: only work on a cool engine. Aluminum cylinder heads are common on modern engines, and removing plugs from a hot head can damage threads. Disconnect the negative battery cable if your service information recommends it, wear eye protection, and keep track of every bolt and connector. If plug access requires removing the intake manifold, consider having a professional do the job.
- Let the engine cool completely, then open the hood and remove any engine covers.
- Clean around each coil with compressed air (wear eye protection) so debris can’t fall into the plug well when the coil is removed.
- Work on one cylinder at a time to avoid mixing up connectors. Press the release tab and disconnect the electrical connector from the first coil.
- Remove the coil’s hold-down bolt and lift the coil straight out with a gentle twist.
- Use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and an extension to loosen the old plug. Turn it out by hand once it breaks free.
- Inspect the old plug. Oil, heavy carbon, white blistering, or a damaged electrode can point to other engine issues worth discussing with a technician.
- Confirm the new plug matches the old one and check the gap if your service information calls for it.
- Thread the new plug in by hand to prevent cross-threading. A short length of rubber hose on the plug terminal makes this easier in tight spots.
- Tighten the plug to the torque value in your service information. Over-tightening can damage threads; under-tightening can cause overheating or blow-out.
- Inspect the coil boot, reinstall the coil, tighten its hold-down bolt, and reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
- Repeat for each remaining cylinder, remembering that HEMI engines have two plugs per cylinder.
- Reconnect the battery if disconnected, start the engine, and confirm a smooth idle with no warning lights.
Spark Plug Care and Ignition Maintenance Tips
- Follow your owner’s manual interval and use the severe-service schedule if you tow, idle a lot, or drive in extreme heat or dust.
- Replace all plugs at once. Mixing old and new plugs can create uneven combustion.
- Don’t use anti-seize or thread lubricants unless your service information calls for them, since they can change effective torque.
- Fix oil leaks promptly. Oil in the plug wells, often from a valve cover gasket, can damage coils and cause misfires.
- Keep the intake side healthy. A clean air filter and good-quality fuel help the plugs do their job.
- Check the charging system. Weak voltage from a failing alternator can affect ignition performance and starting.
While you are under the hood, take a minute to look over your belts and hoses for cracks, glazing, or soft spots. It’s the kind of quick check that prevents roadside surprises.
Key Takeaways
- Every gasoline Mopar engine uses spark plugs; diesels such as the 6.7L Cummins and 3.0L EcoDiesel do not.
- Modern Mopar engines use coil-on-plug ignition, and HEMI V8s use two plugs per cylinder.
- Heat range, gap, reach, and electrode material are engine-specific, so shop by VIN for the right plug.
- Rough idle, misfires, hard starts, and lower fuel economy are common signs of worn plugs.
- Replace plugs on a cool engine, one cylinder at a time, and torque them to specification.
- Genuine Mopar plugs match factory calibration and are backed by the Mopar parts warranty.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I replace spark plugs?
Intervals depend on your engine and driving conditions. Many modern engines use long-life plugs with intervals around 100,000 miles, but some engines and severe-service schedules call for earlier replacement. Your owner’s manual has the correct interval for your vehicle.
Does my diesel Ram need spark plugs?
No. Diesel engines, including the 6.7L Cummins and the 3.0L EcoDiesel, ignite fuel using compression heat rather than a spark. They rely on glow plugs or an intake air heater to help cold starts.
Why does my HEMI have 16 spark plugs?
The HEMI V8 uses two spark plugs per cylinder. Firing two plugs promotes more complete, efficient combustion. When you replace them, you need a full set for all eight cylinders.
Can I use a different brand or “performance” spark plug?
You can, but a different heat range or electrode design may not match the engine’s calibration and could cause misfires, fouling, or in rare cases engine damage. The factory-specified Mopar plug is the safest choice for a stock engine.
Should I replace ignition coils when I change spark plugs?
Not automatically. Coils are often reused if they work properly. Inspect the boots for cracks, oil contamination, or carbon tracking, and replace any coil that is linked to a recurring misfire.
Can worn spark plugs damage my catalytic converter?
Yes, they can contribute to it. A persistent misfire sends unburned fuel into the exhaust, where it can overheat the catalytic converter. A flashing check engine light is a warning to reduce load and get the engine checked soon.
Do I need to gap new spark plugs?
Many modern plugs come pre-gapped for their intended engine. Check your service information; if a gap check is recommended, use a proper gauge and avoid bending or prying against fine iridium or platinum tips.
Can you ship spark plugs to my home?
Yes. Mopar Superstore ships genuine Mopar spark plugs nationwide, so you can order the correct set for your engine using your VIN and have it delivered to your home or repair shop.